Exactly a year ago I took my first solo trip, inspired by an invitation to explore the Gifu prefecture on a culinary tour. For context, I took my first Japanese cooking class with Yoko Issasi (of FoodStory) in 2015. She guided us through the Downtown LA fish market to pick out fresh seafood & other ingredients that we brought back to her nearby studio to create a multi-course Japanese meal. I left in awe…her class shaped my deep love for Japanese food+cooking, and ultimately inspired the work I do today.
So how’d I end up in Gifu, exactly? I’d actually been craving an authentic, local experience in Japan, so when Yoko (who I had not seen or heard from in years) emailed me about a small fall tour at her family’s countryside bed-and-breakfast, I didn’t hesitate. I snagged one of the eight spots offered and planned my entire solo adventure around it.
Was I was slightly anxious about joining a group of strangers (three couples!) and sharing close quarters? Perhaps a little…but after my incredible week alone in Tokyo + Kyoto my only thought was bring it on (lol)
I took the train from Kyoto to Seki, a city in Gifu, with zero expectations. We started the trip with a delicious kaiseki lunch, followed by a hike up the lush green hills to Gifu Castle. Yoko’s family home, run by her sweet mother Takako, was soooo cozy, immaculate, and full of soul. Takako speaks only a few words of English but somehow we were able to converse the whole time. She kept me hysterically laughing and feeling at home, constantly replenishing my mug with piping hot Houjicha tea alongside small plates of assorted wagashi (Japanese sweets).
One of the best parts of the trip was how much we experienced in such a short time. We explored numerous mountain towns, each famous for its own specialty - woodworking, pottery, chestnut desserts, beef and so on. The itinerary was thoughtfully guided yet allowed plenty of time to explore freely. Yoko took us to her favorite local food spots, antique shops, festivals, and more. Pure pure PUREEE bliss.
Each morning, I’d wake up early and walk along the stunning riverbank before breakfast. It felt like stepping into a Ghibli movie…misty mountains, birdsongs and the sound of flowing waters. I’m laughing writing this because I’m not even slightly exaggerating. I’d come back home to the scent of miso and rice, where Yoko and Takako were already making breakfast, usually letting me jump in and help. I often paused to take notes, photos and videos so I wouldn’t forget a thing.
I joined this tour with a mindset of constant learning, and my greatest takeaway was witnessing the deep pride and dedication these Japanese artisans have for their craft. From the woman running an old unagi restaurant, the apple farmers, the washi makers, or the master potters, each of them devote years, or rather lifetimes, to perfecting one skill. Repetition is at the core of their practice and how so many of them achieve such mastery.
OK - let’s talk about the food. These four days in Gifu offered some of the best bites of my entire Japan trip. We explored an incredible range of cuisine: from sushi and soba to kaiseki, street food, dessert shops, and traditional Japanese home-cooking. Learning from each sensei, including Yoko, left me deeply inspired both in the kitchen and beyond. If you’re still here, keep scrolling for the itinerary :)
FOOD (just some of it!!)
Activities:
Seki Knife Festival (Seki is a small town known for its cutlery. This event brings together local artisans who set up shop in tents and sell a variety of items including kitchen knives, scissors, nail clippers, tweezers, and all types of blades at great discounts straight from the producers!)
Exploring Mino - A small historical town known for its handmade paper and paper lanterns.
Cook dinner & breakfasts with Yoko (optional)
Cormorant fishing boat ride - Ancient night time fishing by cormorant birds’ Master
Exploring Takayama
morning farmer’s market
antique shops + incense stores
sake tastings + breweries
Hida Village Open-air museum featuring Edo-period farmhouses, known for their thatched roofs and wood construction
Learn about and taste the amazing local foods in the Mino & Hida Regions
Exploring Tajimi
Visiting the Kobe Kiln, one of the oldest kilns in Japan
Shopping for pottery in Mino
Visit several nationally-acclaimed Mino Pottery Barnes & Museums
Exploring Magome
Tea ceremony
Lots of tea & wagashi time
Wagashi making with a gold-medalist wagashi maker!
FOOD:
Contemporary Kaeseki Lunch
Sushi Omakase
Charcol crilled unagi (grilled eel) rice bowls
Homemade Japanese breakfasts every morning (SUCH a treat)
Day 1: Traditional Japanese breakfast
Day 2: Matcha Shokupan (Japanese milk bread), Kinako flavored granola + fresh-picked persimmon & asian pear
Day 3. New Year’s breakfast Ozoni: Mochi in savory broth
Day 4: Rice balls & Kenchin-Jiru (classic temple-origin soup with root vegetables)
Classic Japanese bento box filled with seasonal and
regional dishes.
Formal Kaeseki dinner
Irori style lunch at Yanagiya - incredible experience
Homemade soba noodles with chicken and leek dipping sauce
Specialty dessert shop: Soybean flavored soft serve, matcha mousse, warabi mochi
EXPLORATIONS
Until next time, magical Gifu <3
Brilliant. I crave authentic Japan trips more than new books.